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CARESHEET: SNAKES: Corn Snake |
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| Common Name :-Corn snake
Classification/Latin name :-Elaphe Guttata
Subfamily :-
Size :-Adult size is on average 120cm
Distribution :-North America |
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- Natural habitat:-
- Scrub, arable and grass land where it hides under rocks and in burrows, coming out to bask and hunt.
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- Description:-
- Natural colour is a tan brown with dark red saddles which have a black border, and a chequered belly.
There are however a huge number of colour variants also available.
The best and most accurate method of sexing is by probing which should only be carried out by an experienced professional.
Tail length is also a good guide with males having the longer tail.
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- Enclosure size:-
- Corn snakes only require a moderate size enclosure with 45cmx25cm floor area being suitable up to one year old, then a 90-120cmx30cm floor area as a permanent enclosure.
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- Heating and temperature:-
- A hot spot of approximately 30 degrees centigrade is ideal with cooler areas of approximately 25 degrees centigrade. Corn snakes natural behaviour is to hibernate. If you do decide to hibernate your snake (usually for breeding purposes) they are over wintered at approximately 5-8 degrees centigrade, for 6-8 weeks.
Heat mats are an ideal heat source although incandescent bulbs can be used. A thermostat will reduce the risk of overheating, with an on/off type stat ideal for heat mats or a dimmer stat for bulbs.
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- Lighting and day length:-
- Corn snakes are by nature, crepuscular, which means they are active dawn and dusk and they do not benefit from high light intensities.
If a bulb is used for heating then a coloured, preferably red, bulb is best as white bulbs will encourage them to hide.
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- Humidity:-
- Humidity levels are usually quoted as 50-60%, however corns seem very tolerant of a wide range of conditions and a few percent out is unlikely to be critical to their wellbeing.
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- Substrate and decoration:-
- We have found bark chip ideal for corns although aspen substrate, newspaper or beech chip can also be used to good effect.
Hides in both cool and warm areas are required and a branch, although not a necessity, will be used extensively.
Plastic plants can be used to make the vivarium more aesthetically pleasing.
A large heavy water bowl the snakes can drink from and bathe in, should be placed in the cool end to stop the water evaporating and to increase the thermal gradient.
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- Feeding and vitamins:-
- Corns should be fed twice a week up to one year old and then once a week after this, with an appropriately sized mouse.
Mice should be no larger in diameter than the girth of the snake.
No supplements are generally required, although a vitamin solution can be added to their water if the animal looks below par, or in times of stress, i.e. during the breeding season.
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- Possible problems:-
- Corns are usually problem free. Sometimes, however, they may fail to shed their skin, in which case the best way to deal with this is to put the snake in a damp pillowcase overnight in its vivarium.
This will usually remove all the old skin. If they have any retained eye scales then these are best removed by a qualified person or vet to prevent any damage.
Please deal with any problems as soon as possible as the longer they are left the harder they are to treat.
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- Handling:-
- Initially corns can be quite nervous and during the first few weeks of owning your pet it is recommended that they are held inside the vivarium so that they are contained, if they panic.
This reduces the risk of injuring them if they are dropped. Once they have settled they can be held mid body with gentle restraint.
Corns are one of the best snakes for handling and once settled, rarely bite.
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- Breeding and egg incubation:-
- Corns are one of the easiest snakes to breed and will usually produce eggs if a pair are kept together.
There are no special conditions required to encourage them, however for maximum fertility and production, the adults should be hibernated for 6-8 weeks.
When the female is ready to lay, a tupperware or ice cream tub with a hole cut in one end for access, and filled with damp peat, should be introduced.
The female will lay in this and then the eggs can be removed for incubation.
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- Further reading:-
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