Common Name :- Leopard Gecko.

Classification/Latin name :- Eublepharis macularius.

Subfamily :- Eublepharinae (which derives from the Latin Eu meaning good/true, and blephar meaning eyelid).

Size :- 8-10 inches

Distribution :- Eastern Iran to Pakistan

Natural Habitat:-

Rocky desert and semi-arid grasslands where it lives in burrows and under rocks.

Description:-

A chunky lizard with light grey to yellow back and black spots, the underside is off-white, they have moveable eyelids and a broad tail where fat deposits are stored. Males have pre-anal pores and a double bulge at the base of its tail where its hemipenes are. Females are usually smaller and more slender than the males and lack the above male characteristics. There are also a wide range of colour morphs now available, including Leucistic, Albino, Blizzard, Hypos, Jungles and many others.

Enclosure size:-

Leopard Geckos do not require large enclosures, with a 60cmx30cm floor area being suitable for a pair, providing suitable hiding areas are supplied. However, a larger enclosure of 90cmx30cm floor area would be preferable and easier to set up in a more naturalistic style.

Heating and temperature:-

Leopards require a hot spot of 35-40 degrees centigrade with a thermal gradient down to approx 25 degrees centigrade. Heat mats, incandescent bulbs (red if required to heat the tank at night), or a combination of the two, are suitable and efficient methods for the size of vivarium these lizards require. A thermostat will reduce the risk of overheating when using more powerful heat sources. A dimmer stat for bulbs or a basic on-off or pulse proportional stat for non light emitting heat sources are suitable.

Lighting and day length:-

These lizards are nocturnal, so any lighting will encourage them to hide. Consequently, UV tubes are not necessary and will do little good for this species. If lighting is required to brighten or heat the vivarium, then a coloured bulb, preferably red, will reduce the amount of time the lizard hides during the illuminated period.

Humidity:-

A general humidity of 50 to 60% if required. If the animal has problems shedding then a wet box can be provided. A wet box is usually made from a sandwich type box with a hole cut in one end for easy access and a good layer of damp moss or bark chips put inside. The lizards will retreat to this when they are shedding.

Substrate and decoration:-

Bark chips, newspaper or digestible sand are all suitable. Please note that building or sharp sand is NOT suitable. Leopards may have problems shedding, if kept on sand or paper without access to a wet box(see humidity section). The vivarium should be decorated with pieces of bark as hides, and plastic plants. Rocks should be used with care as the lizard may dig under, dislodging them with potentially disastrous consequences.

Feeding and vitamins:-

We recommend feeding young leopards for the first few months, daily, with as many insects as they will eat. After that, switch to every other day and feed as many as they will eat in a short period, usually 4-6 items. Each insect should be no longer than the width of the lizards head. Crickets and locusts are the ideal staple diet, with wax worms and mealworms as an occasional treat. All food items should be dusted with vitamins by putting the insects in a small polythene bag with a pinch of multi vitamins like Repton, or other calcium or D3 based vitamins formulated for insectivorous reptiles, then shaking to coat the food items, prior to feeding.

Possible problems:-

Shedding can be a problem if the vivarium is too dry, also some individuals seem to be particularly prone to shedding problems, especially round the toes. If any skin is stuck on the lizard, the easiest method of removal is to put it into a plastic box, with air holes, and approx 1cm of lukewarm water and leave it to soak overnight in the warm end of the vivarium. The next day the skin will be soft enough for the skin to be removed. If the skin is left on, the toes are likely to die and drop off. Metabolic bone disease and other deficiencies should not occur if the lizards are given the vitamins as described. If the lizard appears ill in any way shape or form, please consult a qualified person. If a vet, ensure they specialise in reptiles. Remember, the earlier any problem is tackled, the easier it will be to correct it.

Handling:-

Juvenile leopards should be encouraged to walk onto a flat hand and held inside the vivarium for short periods over the first few weeks. This builds up the lizards confidence, while ensuring that if the lizard does panic and leap off, it is contained. Keep handling sessions short but frequent initially, for best results. After a few weeks the lizard should be far more relaxed and can be held for longer periods. If it is necessary to restrain a leopard gecko (e.g.- to remove unshed skin), hold it around the shoulders with finger and thumb and cup the body in your hand. This is an easy species to handle.

Breeding and egg incubation:-

Leopard Geckos are very obliging when it comes to breeding. Keep a male and female together and you will almost certainly get fertile eggs. They breed through late spring to early autumn, laying several clutches of two eggs. The female needs a laying site where she can bury the eggs, for this a tupperware or ice cream tub is ideal. Cut a hole in one end, 5cm or so, up and large enough that the geckos can easily climb through. Put 5-10cm of damp peat in the tub, sloping from the front up to the back, this makes it obvious when the female has been digging. Once the female has been digging, very carefully remove the eggs ensuring they are not turned at all, as this can kill them. Place them in depressions in damp peat, vermiculite or a mixture of the two, in a plastic tub and incubate at 80 degrees Fahrenheit for females, 90 degrees Fahrenheit for males or 85 degrees Fahrenheit for a mix of sexes. The eggs hatch at 6-10 weeks. Keep an eye out for the eggs collapsing as this indicated a substrate that is too dry. If the substrate is too damp, fungus can be a problem. When they hatch, keep the babies damp for about a week as they dehydrate very easily, damp kitchen towel is ideal as an initial substrate. After this period, set them up with a similar set up as the adults.

Further reading:-